Firstly, the initial examination of the capabilities:
Checking all car accessories if they are working or not.
Initially, the engine is turned on and the air conditioner is turned on
Noticing that if there is a sound while the engine is running and if it is spinning quickly or not several times (the presence of a sound at the start of the rotor indicates damage to the starter motor itself)
Notice that the car has tremors on the idle speed or with an increase in the rpm (the engine bases are not in good condition, or have been changed with poor type)
Note that the rpm is rising and falling, indicating a defect in the IDLE & TPS sensors
Experimenting with the front and rear wipers and windshield sprayers (note the sound of the wiper motor while working, wiring the sprinklers if they are not working, and making sure to supply water to the wind washer if they are empty, and note any cuts with the hoses)
Check Electric windows (from driver buttons and door buttons)
check The center lock from inside the car and with the remote control and from each door separately
Electric mirrors in all directions
Any crack under the center mirror (unoriginal glass)
Check Different seat positions (forward, back, back flat, up and down) and the memory test if the car is equipped with it
Check The steering wheel positions up and down, and inside and outside if equipped
Horn test with steering wheel turning every 20 degrees to the far right and far left (to check the operation of the spiral cable related to AIRBAG )
Seat belt tension test for all Seats (related to AIRBAG )
Turn on sound system and hear the sound from all speakers with a loud voice and no cracking sound
Review dashboard meters and warning lights
Checking the seats , ceiling, floor and sides if there are any cuts
Examine all interior thresholds for rust and corrosion , raise the floor mats, and inspect with a flashlight for the presence of rust.
Opening the trunk and raising the floor mat and making sure that the factory welding at the bottom of the trunk under the spare tire and that there are no traces of restoration, rust or corrosion.
Checking Interior lights with the doors open and closed (it could be an electrical wiring problem if they don’t work)
Click on the dashboard from all directions to see if it was dismantled in advance due to an accident
Noting that there are differences between the doors and the dashboard
Car Mechanical checks:
Raise the rpm of the car from the inside and let go of the pedal several times and notice any cracking or knocking sound from the engine.
Repeat the experience, but with the steering wheel being broken to the far right one time and the left one time, and you hear the abnormal sound from the belts (you need to change)
Ensure that the air conditioner is working well at all speeds and from all ventilation openings.
Opening the hood and checking the coolant level of the radiator (some cars have radiators under the drain and are not visible)
Checking the operation of the cooling fans without operating the air conditioner after a period of running the engine
Pull the oil gauge and check the level of engine oil and transmission fluid.
Note any oil leakage on the engine or fluids and try to find out its source
Notice any roughness on the side of the belts (you need to change the tension, usually or a drum)
The owner of the car was asked to raise the rpm several times and note the engine sound and the presence of any leakage from the radiator cap or the housing
And at the same time, note the smoke and its color (white or blue indicating oil leakage and needing a set of oil gaskets or valves, and the black color indicates that the fire is not complete and the car needs spark plugs or carburetors or the ratio of Air to fuel is not controlled by the control. ) (Water mist comes out indicating the engine’s efficiency)
Opening the air cover and inspection of the cleanliness of the air filter and the air path to the engine and the absence of any leaks in it
Open the battery covers and look at the Acid level (the liquid battery) or the color of the lamp (the dry battery, and each color and its significance in relation to the condition of the battery will be written on it)
Check the battery positive and negative skimmers for salt and corrosion
Check the level of power and brake fluids
Manual check by pressing on the radiator hoses and note if they have a roughness or a feeling of cracking inside with pressure (there is rust)
Checking the radiator and the cap after turning off the car and check signs of rust
Examine the screws visible in the engine and touch them by hand to note the presence of several traces of jawing and installation to rebuild the engine
Note: Some cars have engine covers and the battery must be removed either by hand or with screws
Third, check Car Suspension :
Note that if the car is stable after parking it in a horizontal position and does not lean to the side, forward or backward
Check the engine bases and gearboxes for minor cuts in any direction
check at each shock absorber in the car and press the car by hand several times and forcefully and leave the car and note the way the car is raised (if the shock absorber is light, you will notice an up and down movement after raising the hand, and if its condition is good, you will notice that the car rises up and is fixed In place without reciprocating movement)
Passing a finger over the brake disks to notice an even parts on the disk .
Examination of the front and rear brake pads , if it is good enough for at least 10,000 km more.
The presence of traces of black soot on rims indicates the poor quality of the brake pads
Inspection of the car’s tire by looking through cracks or cuts, And check the date of production of all tires (found on the wheel, consisting of 4 numbers inside a rectangle, the first two numbers from the left represent the week of manufacture and the other two numbers indicate the year of manufacture, ” 2609 ” means the twenty-sixth week of the year 2009 and the tire is not suitable for more than 4 Years from production date)
Paint & exterior inspection:
The car must be examined in the sunlight and notice the presence of any color difference between any parts of the car (it is normal for there to be a slight color difference between the inside and outside due to the influence of the sun)
Dust is wiped by hand from any part of the car and standing next to the part and placing the edge of your head on the part and flaking along the length of the part to notice the presence of light liquefaction (usually there is liquefaction in the sprayed parts, regardless of the professionalism of the paint technician)
Repeat the previous process on all longitudinal and transverse segments of the car, especially the roof, trunk, hood and doors.
Removing the inner rubber of the doors and check the inner rivet if it has traces of spraying it is liquefied or filled with filler just by looking
Examine the presence of abnormal breaks between the hood and the fenders or the trunk and the fenders
Checking the front, back and rear lights if they are matte, broken, silicon, or non-lit bulbs
Test Drive the Car:
The car must be boarded and tested well with the windows closed and the air conditioning turned on at the first speed only or AC turned off as follows:
Initially, notice the rpm of the car if it is rising or falling suddenly
turn steering wheel to the far right one time and the left one time and move the car and notice the presence of a click from the drive shaft or steering wheel
In the case of the manual gearbox, not pressing the gasoline and gradually lifting the leg off the clutch and noting that the car moves from stability indicates the safety of the clutch kit
Sudden pressure on the accelerator pedal if the car is equipped with a traction control and a note of rubbing the wheels (on dirt)
Notice the car’s shifts and their tracking, the absence of a hoarse sound from the gear shift, a slowing in the shifts, a twitch, or a lack of response to the shifts.
Pressing the brake pedal, a sudden light press at a speed of 60, to notice the down shift .
Pressing the pedal, a sudden strong pressure on the speed of 80 to continue the over drive (two shifts)
Leaving the gas pedal abruptly, hearing any cracking sounds from the Exhaust , and looking in the side mirror to notice black smoke.
In the case of the manual gearbox, and while driving, the clutch is pressed while the gasoline is pressed for a second and the clutch is left again (the presence of an observed drop in the rpm indicates the end of the life of the clutch kit)
Notice any sound on the side of the wheels (ball bearings needs to be changed)
Experimenting with the car on a bump at a light speed and noting the sound of shock absorber and scissors due to the presence of any friction or knocking sound (you need an shock absorber)
Experimenting with a light click, hearing the sound of the bug, and observing the movement of the steering wheel with clicking (a problem with the steering wheel or the caliper in the brake with the bush)
Notice how heavy or hidden the steering wheel is ( whether it is oil or EPS )
– Drive the car at High speed:
Speed the car from 90 to 120 KM, and notice any new sounds that appear from the gearbox or trunk
Leave the steering wheel and note if the car is traveling in a straight direction or not (wheel alignments need adjusting, and after corners detection, the detection determines whether they need changing control arm struts or steering wheels need adjusting or changing)
Tremor of the steering wheel at a speed indicates the wheel’s need for sealing and adjusting the air (air pressure is usually on the driver’s door )
Observing the performance of the car on air turbulence if it descends next to or is difficult to control (wheel alignments )
Quietly test the brakes and notice the performance of the car and the sound of the brake
brake Suddenly and check the brakes and whether or not ABS is working (on dirt or water, you can feel a knock in the brake pedal)
Pressing after the sudden brakes quickly on the accelerator pedal and notice the smooth performance of the car
If the car is equipped with ESC , ESP or ASR, try breaking the steering wheel right then left and performing the car in maneuvering (the sliding lamp may light if the road is slippery and this is normal)
Fourth, lift the car:
The car is raised in a garage and looking at the bottom of the car
– The presence of any oil from the engine and gear cartridge (need cartridge, silicone gaskets)
– The presence of oil from the steering wheel (you need a steering wheel because the restoration will not give efficiency for long enough)
– The presence of oil from the drive shaft side of the gear and the calf side ( OIL SEAL )
– Rear-wheel drive cars: The presence of an fluid on the rear side of the differential ( OIL SEAL )
The presence of any knocking, welding or new color marks on the two parts of the chassis
– The presence of an oil from the four shock absorbers or a cut in the seals covering them (if fitted)
– Holding the strut bars by hand and moving them in a rotating motion and note if they are light in rotation with you or if there are cuts in the joints towards the calf (you need to change the joints of the bars or the bars themselves )
– Repeat the above with the front and back anti-sway bars and check the balance
– The presence of any minor cuts in the tire of the scales and the scales tearing towards the calf
– There is no crack in the joints or a minor cut in the joints rubber
– Checking the base of the engine and the lower gear for any cut or slight crack in the rubber (a screwdriver can be used and inserted inside the base rubber voids and look in all directions for the presence of any cracks)
– The presence of any knock in the middle or final case of the checkers or the pipes of the checkers
Looking from afar at the calf and noting its corners and corresponding to the right and the left
Grab the front calf by the hands and pull it to the far outside (right or left) quickly and leave it and note if it returns by such a degree or not (its return is evidence of the safety of the steering wheel)
Notice the presence of wear on the inner and outer sides of the tire (corners problem, candlestick or violent driving style)
– Looking at the radiators and the presence of any traces of welding with it or cuts in the rubber bases or in the external air conditioning serpentine (in front of the radiator)
Look at the bottom of the car with the engine running and note any leaks
– Removing the front and rear wheels of the car on the right side and inspecting the tire
Computer erros scan:
To make sure 100% of the safety of the car’s electricity, it must be examined with a diagnostic device to review the presence of any malfunction in any sensor or control of the car (if it is not available, then you should focus very well on the car’s performance in all of the above and note any abnormal performance)
The computer will detect the true kilometer of the vehicle if it is changed by the owner
The history of AIRBAG should be reviewed to see if it was opened earlier
Note: The owner may disassemble the dashboard and cover the malfunction bulb or connect the airbag bulb directly with the oil bulb to turn off with it and not notice a malfunction in it or install the temperature indicator at some point, so it is preferable to check with scanning device.
Next: Detailed vehicle inspection checklist for checking used cars before buying
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